Over the Christmas and New Year period I got to spend some of my own holiday time at Villa degli Armeni and indulge in one of my favourite things to do there: weather watching!
In contrast to the summer, when most days are rather boringly cloudless (although there is the occasional thunderstorm), autumn, winter and spring offer ever-changing panoramas of clouds, mist, light and shade across the Sabine Hills, the Tiber Valley and a large chunk of Lazio laid out below the villa.
Somehow, from nearly 500 metres up, you feel more part of the weather here than in most places: watching the play of light over the landscape, the arrival of a distant storm, the fog clinging to the valley bottom, with the little villages of the Sabina poking out like islands. Sometimes the cloud descends and all sound is muffled, the view is blanked out and you feel remote from everything.
Fascinating to watch, and even more fascinating to photograph. I wish my photography skills were greater, as well as my time available to capture all the moods of the changing landscapes and weather I experienced in just a few days, but here are a few photos taken with my phone which hope to give some idea.
The first few days we were there were very bright and sunny. On days like that in the winter what typically happens is that cold air sinks into the Tiber Valley and forms fog overnight, so you wake to a view like the one above, a sea of fog with higher areas emerging like islands.
Over the course of the morning the fog burns off, but remains as a haze which softens the landscape. Look up and the sky is pure blue.
After some days the weather changed, with showers and quite heavy rain. Heavy clouds race across the view, and where there is a gap the sun bursts through and highlights parts of the landscape.
Villa degli Armeni – private rental villa near Rome
Video: Greccio, in the footsteps of St Francis
With Christmas nearly here, what could be better than a visit to Greccio, known as the Franciscan Bethlehem, where St Francis created the very first living nativity scene, in 1223. The nativity scene, or “presepe” soon became an Italian Christmas tradition, and only in recent years have Christmas trees been added to peoples homes. Living nativity scenes are also a Christmas feature in many Italian towns and villages to this day, including in Greccio itself.
The monastery is very atmospheric, set among thick forest and clinging to a cliff face overlooking the Rieti valley. It’s a beautiful place to visit any time of year, the monastery itself is fascinating and there is a year round exhibition of nativity scenes, but at Christmas it takes on extra significance.
Every year Greccio hosts a Christmas market and historical reconstructions of the first living nativity scene.
Greccio Christmas Market and Greccio living Nativity 2015
05.12- 06.12 – 07.12 – 08.12.2015
12.12 – 13.12.2015
19.12 – 20.12.2015
24.12 – 25.12 – 26.12 – 27.12.2015
01.01 – 02.01 – 03.01 – 04.01 – 05.01 – 06.01.2016
Centro Storico – GRECCIO (RI)
from 10.00 to 19.00
Thanks to Viaggio in Sabina for the video.
Photo Comune di Greccio
Villa degli Armeni – villa rental near Rome
Grotta di San Michele on Mount Tancia
I recently came across a treasure trove of promotional videos for the Sabine Hills, made by Viaggio in Sabina. Some really well made, (and subtitled in English!) videos showcasing the region, its sights, festivals and food. I’m going to be featuring some of them over the following weeks, and I thought I’d start with a place very close to Villa degli Armeni, and close to my heart too! The Grotta di San Michele on Mount Tancia.
Once sacred to the Sabine goddess of forests and crops, Vacuna, it was rededicated in medieval times to Saint Michael. Surrounded by legend, it’s still an evocative an mysterious place to visit.
From Villa degli Armeni just head straight up the mountain. After a pleasant 10 minute drive through the forest you come to a tiny bridge: park up and head up the path to the left. Follow the signs and you’ll reach the Grotta in about 20 minutes.
Villa degli Armeni – private rental villa near Rome